Medellin CoffeeFarm Tours & Tastings

Inside a Medellin Coffee Farm

Short answer. A coffee farm is eight stations, not one. Nursery, picking, de-pulping, fermentation, drying, milling, roasting and cupping. The one that decides how your cup tastes is fermentation, and it is also the one you will walk past in ten seconds if nobody tells you.

Every farm morning around Medellin follows the same sequence, and knowing it in advance is the difference between watching a process and understanding one. The tree takes three years to fruit. The cherry has to be off the bean within hours of picking. And the choice a farmer makes about a fermentation tank does more to your cup than the roast does. Here is each station, in the order a coffee plantation tour Medellin walks you through them.

The eight stations, in order

StationHow long it takesWhat it decides
Nursery6–8 months, then 3 years to fruitThe variety
PickingSeveral passes over a seasonRipeness, and therefore sweetness
De-pulpingThe same dayWhether the fruit ferments on the bean
Fermentation12–36 hoursWashed, honey or natural
Drying1–3 weeksStability, and whether the lot survives
Trilla (milling)MinutesGreen coffee, ready to ship
Roasting8–14 minutesMost of what you smell
Cupping10 minutesThe score, and the price

The growing side

The nursery, where a tree starts

A coffee plant is grown from seed in a shaded bed for six to eight months before it goes into the ground, and it will not fruit for another three years. Most farms here start you at the seedbed for that reason: it sets the timescale for everything that follows. On two of these tours you plant one yourself and it is labelled with your name.

Picking, and why it is still done by hand

Coffee on an Antioquia hillside ripens unevenly, so the same branch will carry green, yellow and deep red cherries at once. A picker takes only the red ones and comes back to the same tree several times in a season. You will be given a basket on a belt, shown what ripe looks like, and left to work a row; nobody expects you to fill it.

De-pulping, within hours of picking

The cherry has to come off the bean the same day or the fruit starts to ferment on its own. A hand-cranked or motorised de-pulper squeezes the skin and most of the flesh away and leaves the bean in a sticky layer called mucilage. Several farms hand you the crank; one of them serves the mucilage back to you as a frappé.

Fermentation, and the tank that decides the flavour

The beans sit in a tank for twelve to thirty-six hours while what is left of the fruit breaks down. How long that runs, and whether the mucilage is washed off, left partly on or left entirely on, is the difference between a washed, a honey and a natural coffee. It is the single biggest decision a small farm makes about how its coffee will taste.

Drying, on tables in the sun

The beans are spread on raised beds or a concrete patio and turned by hand for one to three weeks until they hold about eleven per cent moisture. In the rainy months the beds go under plastic. This is the step that most often surprises visitors: it is slow, it is entirely weather-dependent, and it is why every farm here watches the forecast.

The trilla, taking the husk off

Dried beans keep a papery parchment layer that is milled away before roasting. On a small farm that is a threshing machine in a shed; commercially it is a mill in the city. What comes out is green coffee, and it is the form in which almost all of Colombia’s crop leaves the country.

Did you know? A coffee cherry usually contains two beans, flat sides together. About five per cent of the time a single round bean forms instead — a peaberry — and farms here sort them out and sell them separately. Ask; most farms will show you a handful.

The processing side

Roasting, where the flavour is finished

Green coffee has no aroma to speak of. Eight to fourteen minutes in a drum takes it through the first crack and into the range you recognise. The farm tours roast a small batch over a fire or in a table-top drum; the roastery product puts you in front of a commercial machine and someone who does it for a living.

Cupping, and how professionals actually taste

Ground coffee, hot water poured straight onto it, a crust broken with a spoon after four minutes, then slurped hard from the spoon so it sprays across the palate. It is not elegant and it is the standard method everywhere in the trade. Two of these tours run a proper cupping table; the rest pour you a good cup and talk you through it.

What the farms send you home with

A poncho on four of these days and a hat on two, a picker’s certificate on three, a small bag of the farm’s own coffee on one, and on almost all of them the chance to buy more at the gate for less than a specialty bag costs in El Poblado.

Useful tip. Ask how long they run the fermentation and whether the mucilage comes off. The answer tells you whether you are about to taste a washed, a honey or a natural coffee, and the tastings page explains what each one tastes like before you get there.

Five things most visitors walk past

  • The seedbed. Small, shaded and easy to miss, and the reason a farm plans in decades.
  • The colour chart on the wall. Several farms keep one showing exactly which shade of red counts as ripe.
  • The channel below the de-pulper. Water carries the good beans one way and the floaters another; it is the first sorting step.
  • The moisture meter. Eleven per cent, and a lot that misses it will not keep.
  • The bags in the corner. Green coffee waiting to go to the mill, which is what almost all of Colombia's crop looks like when it leaves the country.

Which farm shows you the most

They vary more than the listings suggest. The farm-and-roastery half day is the only one that follows a bean into a commercial roaster and onto a cupping table. The countryside days give you the whole growing and wet-processing side plus a paisa lunch. The Comuna 8 farm compresses all of it into three hours without leaving the city. The farms page says which is which.

Where the water goes, and why it matters

Wet processing uses a great deal of water, and what a farm does with it afterwards is one of the quiet differences between a good finca and an indifferent one. The channel below the de-pulper carries pulp and mucilage away; on the better farms it goes into a composting bed and comes back as fertiliser for the same rows. Ask where it ends up and you will learn more about how the place is run than any brochure will tell you.

The same is true of the shade. Coffee is naturally an understorey plant, and farms that keep tall trees over the rows get slower ripening, cooler soil and a habitat that holds birds. Several of the fincas around Medellin are planted that way, and it is visible the moment you walk in: rows under canopy rather than rows in full sun.

What a score actually means

Specialty coffee is graded on a hundred-point scale, and eighty is the line: above it a lot is specialty, below it is commercial. Most of what a farm here sends to the mill sits in the low eighties. The lots poured on a cupping table are usually the top of the crop, which is why the coffee you drink on a farm morning tastes better than the same farm's name on a supermarket shelf.

The score is set by a Q-grader, a licensed taster who has passed a set of sensory examinations. When a roastery here tells you a lot scored 85, somebody sat down with a bowl and a spoon and put that number on it. It is the closest thing coffee has to an objective measure, and it is the reason the cupping ritual looks the way it does.

What to ask your guide

A short list of questions gets you a better morning than any amount of reading. What variety is this? How long does the fermentation run? And what did this lot score? Guides on these farms answer all three happily, and the third one usually starts a longer conversation than you expected.

See the whole chain yourself

The sequence reads well and walks better. Medellin Coffee Tours lists the farm days that cover it end to end, from a three-hour city farm to a five-hour run that finishes in a roastery, all with free cancellation at 24 hours.

Farm days that cover the whole chain